The Arbroath Smokie.

The practice of smoking foods is ancient.  The original purpose was to preserve protein rich foods for long periods – foods that without smoking, would otherwise spoil quickly.  Fish has been preserved through smoking for a long time.  Hot smoking tends to be associated with oil-rich species, such as mackerel and the infamous Arbroath Smokie.

Arbroath Smokies originated in Auchmithie, a small fishing village a few miles north of Arbroath in the north east of Scotland, which was once populated with fisher folk of Scandinavian origin.  At the start of the 20th century the first Auchmithie fisher-folk began moving to Arbroath, and the process soon became known as the Arbroath Smokie, as we know it today.

Fisher women circa 1890

Children at play Auchmithie circa 1890

Only haddock can be used to produce an authentic ‘Arbroath Smokie.’  The fish are gutted at sea, washed and boxed ready for auction at the fish market.  Once back in the fish house, they are headed and cleaned.  They are then dry salted in tubs.  This helps to draw excess moisture from the fish and toughens the skin in preparation for the smoking process.  The length of salting time depends on the size of the fish and how fresh they are.  After salting, they are thoroughly washed off, then tied by the tail in ‘pairs’ and hung on sticks.

Cleaning the fish circa 1890.

Hung in pairs.

The Smokie pit is then prepared.  A hole is dug in the ground, and a half whisky barrel is set into it. The base of the barrel is lined with slates to protect it, and a hardwood fire of beech and oak is lit inside.

Traditional smoke barrel.

The sticks of fish are then placed over the pit and the hessian cover allows the fire to breathe and maintain the required heat.  The number of layers and dampening of the ‘cloots’ depends on the weather, and may be adjusted throughout the smoking to prevent the fish either smoking too quickly and burning, or smoking too slowly and drying out.  The cooking time is usually a minimum of 30–40 minutes but only an experienced Smokie maker knows exactly when they are ready.  The resultant golden brown fish, eaten straight from the barrel is a truly mouth-watering experience. 

Nearly ready to eat.

Damping the cloot.

Repairing fishing nets circa 1890.

Arbroath to this day still produces the Smokie using traditional methods.  If you get the chance to visit one of these great Scottish smokehouses, it is well worth it – although you will probably have to give you clothes a good wash afterwards to get rid of the smoky aroma.

Modern day smokehouse, Arbroath.

Arbroath harbour today.

Much reduced modern day fishing fleet.

Arbroath harbour entrance to the North Sea.

If you can't get them hot off the barrel, the next best way to eat them is to open them up, remove the bone, dot with a little butter and reheat gently for approximately 3 minutes under a medium grill. Another favourite is to serve them with grilled bacon.  Or my own favourite is to use it in Cullen Skink soup  –  or as a breakfast treat in Kedgeree.

Outdoor style smoking.

Fish prepared for smoking.